On a late morning in May, the boys and I set out on a walk from the Tuscan hill town in which we were staying. Our path was an ancient vie cave cut by the Etruscans. It was not an easy walk. We descended and ascended steep walkways. The paths have been worn so deep that high walls of stone rise on either side in the eerie quiet. Tired and thirsty, we wondered which way to go at the crossings. It started to rain.